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Best Laser EngraverLab Top picks

ATOMSTACK A20 Pro V2 vs LONGER Ray5 20W

The two open-frame machines almost every first-time buyer puts side by side, separated by a set of safety sensors and a touchscreen.

By Best Laser Engraver LabUpdated October 28, 2026No sponsored placement

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Machine images on this page are flat illustrations drawn for this site, not product photos — open a listing for the real thing. Full disclosure

The short answer: the ATOMSTACK A20 Pro V2 is the safer machine with the bigger bed; the LONGER Ray5 20W runs jobs without a laptop and carries the better owner rating. Both are 20 W. Pick on safety sensors and bed size, or on offline running — the cutting performance is close enough that it will not decide it for you.

Two open-frame diode machines at nearly identical money, bought by the same person for the same reason: to find out whether they like this hobby before spending real money. Both are 20 W, both run free software, and between them they hold most of the owner reviews in this price bracket.

Specifications from each manufacturer’s current documentation, re-checked against the live listing.
 ATOMSTACK A20 Pro V2LONGER Ray5 20W
Optical power20 W20 W
Work area400 × 365 mm400 × 400 mm
FrameOpen, all-aluminiumOpen
Safety sensorsFlame detector and gyroscope tip-over cutoffBasic; check the current revision
Onboard controlUSB stick, no laptop neededTouchscreen, runs from a memory card
Air assistOptionalNozzle included on most kits
Laser spot0.08 × 0.10 mmComparable, varies by revision
Top speed400 mm/sComparable
Cuts 3 mm basswoodYes, one passYes, one pass
SoftwareLightBurn, free LaserGRBL, or the ATOMSTACK appLightBurn or free LaserGRBL

Why the watts do not separate these two

Both modules are 20 W optical, and both get through 3 mm basswood in a single pass. Spec sheets at this price quote numbers that were measured in different ways, so treat the cutting-depth claims on either listing as the best case rather than the typical one. What actually differs is everything around the laser.

The A20 Pro V2 gives you a slightly shorter bed in one axis and an aluminium frame that stays square. The Ray5 gives you 35 mm more depth and a touchscreen. Neither difference will change what you can make.

The safety sensors are the real differentiator

ATOMSTACK builds a flame detector and a gyroscope into the A20 Pro V2, so a knocked frame or a flare-up on a cutting pass cuts power. On an open frame, with nothing between the beam and the room, that matters more than a spec sheet suggests. It does not make the machine safe to leave running — nothing does — but a flare-up is more likely to stop the job than start a fire.

Both are open frame. Everyone in the room needs glasses rated for 445–455 nm, the fumes need somewhere to go, and neither machine should run unattended. Budget roughly $120–180 for glasses, an air assist pump and a honeycomb bed on top of whichever you buy.

Who should buy which

Flat illustration of the ATOMSTACK A20 Pro V2 diode laser engraver
Buy the A20 Pro V2 if

ATOMSTACK A20 Pro V2

You want the sensors and the aluminium frame, and you are happy to drive it from a laptop or a USB stick. It has the longest owner-review history of anything in this bracket, which is worth something on a machine nobody will service for you.

Check price on Amazon
Flat illustration of the LONGER Ray5 20W diode laser engraver
Buy the Ray5 if

LONGER Ray5 20W

You want to start a job and walk away from the laptop. The onboard touchscreen runs from a memory card, which turns out to matter on long cutting runs, and it carries the higher owner rating of the two.

Check price on Amazon

Questions people also ask

Is the ATOMSTACK A20 Pro V2 good for beginners?

It is one of the better open-frame starts because of the flame and tip-over sensors, the big bed and the free software. It is still an open frame, so it needs glasses, ventilation and supervision.

Is a 20 W diode twice as fast as a 10 W?

For cutting, roughly — fewer passes through the same stock. For engraving, barely, because engraving is limited by travel speed rather than power.

Do either of these engrave metal?

Only coated, painted or anodised metal, or bare metal treated with a marking spray. Neither engraves bare stainless steel.

Can I run them with free software?

Yes, both work with LaserGRBL at no cost. LightBurn is worth buying when the free app stops you doing something specific.